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Kino Bay, MX Trip - February 20-23, 2009 Trip initiated by John Maier, participants were: Doug Lease, Norma Miller, Casey Stakauskas and Mark Thaler. Total mileage from Tucson to Kino Bay by way of Nogales to Hermosillo is about 250 miles and takes about 5+ hours including border crossing and Km 21 (MX) check points to get visitor's permits. One must have a legal passport to enter/return or an original/certified birth certificate. June, 2009 is the cut off time when only passports will be accepted. There is no charge to enter Sonora, MX but one must have Mexican Insurance to drive a car anywhere in Mexico. After passing through the mandatory stops at the border and Km 21, travel is fast and easy along MX Hwy. 15 all the way down. Be advised that Hwy. 15 is mostly all toll-way and fees are collected at least three or four times before approaching Hermosillo. Toll fees average between $2 and $5 depending on the length of road between toll stations. One can exchange dollars to pesos conveniently at the Km. 21 stop just south of Nogales, MX and even purchase Mexican car insurance there if necessary. At this time the exchange rate is approximately $13 MX pesos to $1 US dollar. Most Pemex gas stations along the highway and in towns accept dollars and if paying by dollars it's best to know rate of gallons to liters to know what you're getting charged for. Travel is easy, there are "carne asada" (grilled chopped steak) food stands at all towns, bottled water and sodas. The stores called "OXXO" in MX are equivalent to our Circle K stores in the US and sell mostly the same food/drink and sundries. Take
as much food, water and beverages as you care to carry but there
are plenty of good eateries and food stores to shop at in Old
Kino. Just after passing through the last toll station
before driving into Hermosillo there will be an intersection with
a small highway going west (right turn). This is the west
Hermosillo bypass road called Minas de Pilares. There is a
sign at this intersection which says "Bahia de Kino" or
Kino Bay. Turn right here unless you want to travel through
downtown Hermosillo which takes much more time. The west
bypass will drive up into some foothills where there had been
some old mines. Then through a pass and down the other
side. The road will then turn south toward the west side of
Hermosillo. After about 10+ miles, the bypass road will
come to a large intersection with MX Hwy 100 - heading west out
of Hermosillo to Kino Bay. It will be signed but traffic
and construction can be a distraction, be aware of the traffic
signs and directions. Once on this highway there will be
lots of construction, continue going southwest. There may
be a detour or two to navigate through but eventually the road
continues as it should. It will be about another 50 miles
from the Hermosillo area till you reach the Kino Bay area.
Most of the highways will be 2-lane with a wide passing lane and
a narrow right side lane. Just be aware of the flow of
traffic and legal speed signs. People usually drive about
10 miles an hour faster than is posted. Pay attention to
your route and location for your return trip, sometimes it can
get confusing.
Ah, Old Kino, it's a wonderful place, old world atmosphere and the beauty of the Sea of Cortez where fishing by panga is the main occupation. The bay is calm all morning and the breeze builds by afternoon and then settles again in the evening. So it's best to get the serious kayaking done in the AM hours. It's also good to get a tide table if one wants to explore the Estero (Estuary) Santa Cruz south of town about 2-3 miles. Best place to stay on the cheap is at the Islandia RV Park right at the end of Old Kino at the sea wall. Find it at the end of Guaymas Street (main drag), there is a large painted sign on the wall surrounding the RV park. It's small and full of palm trees, has nice facilities and only cost $5 US dollars a night to camp next to the sea wall by the beach. The place is enclosed by a retaining wall and some barbed wire. It's a very secure place to leave your car and tent while paddling out in the bay. The gates to the beach are locked at night. The park is full of snow birds with small RVs from up as far a Canada. One can rent a small cabana out by the week or month and also rent an RV space out by the month or year. It's very reasonable, quiet, friendly and clean. The beach camps have some palm frawned ramadas and are first come first served, no reservations. There are about 20 spots or more if shared. In town one can get the best, delicious, real ice cream for only $1 a scoop at Luigi's Pizza parlor on Guaymas St. But the best place to eat fresh fish and oysters is found by just driving out of town for a couple miles to the local oyster/clam farm at the Estero Santa Cruz via Acapulco St. all the way east to the estuary. You can either kayak there, as we did, or drive there via good dirt road (we did that the second day). The fresh fish cooked or raw is the best. They get the oysters right out of the water racks, open them and cook them at once. They bring the fish in from the panga boats in the late morning by the milk crate, they are cleaned and filleted right out of the boat. One cannot beat the price. An average plate full of fish or oysters cost only $4 US dollars and comes with rice and condiments. You can bring in your own beverage of choice to drink with your meal as they do not serve booze and they don't care (no permits or laws). Paddling around the estuary was fun. Many varieties of shorebirds, gulls, pelicans, nesting ospreys and wintering duck species. It's always fun to see the birds hang around waiting for the fishermen to clean the fish and throw out the goodies, then the free-for-all is on as the birds clamber and fly after those who got the morsels. Lots of good photo ops all over. Paddling out to and around Pelican Island was another treat and can be done before the wind kicks up in the PM. But who cares since Pelican Island is northwest of the town and one gets a free rolling wave ride back after rounding the island and checking out all the wild inhabitants. We encountered three beached whales there on all sides of the island. They had been there a few weeks but still had lots of flesh. The island was also home to a large Pelican colony that nests there as well as a large Great Blue Heron rookery. They are neighbors there as the herons nest in the giant cardon cactus with the pelicans nesting on the ground below the herons. The yellow-footed gulls were pairing up and beginning their breeding season on the island as well. It was tough to walk around the interior of the island without being dive bombed by the gulls who were looking for their privacy. Blue-footed Boobies were found roosting on the west side of the island, interestingly enough they never fly over to the mainland. And, the ubiquitous Cormorants were seen everywhere on the higher elevation rocky slopes and peaks. They like to nest on the edge of it all. The entire island is draped in a veil of white bird guano from many years of rearing families. The weekend we were there there was an old time carnival in town with lots of kiddy-type rides and a couple more wild varieties. The rides were old and run by big automobile engines and we managed to ride on just one of the more sedate rides. It was a good time after a fine dinner in town. We hope to return to Old Kino for another kayaking adventure before it gets too warm. Will plan on the third weekend in March. |
